The psychologist starts by quoting the definitions of fetishism, sexual masochism and sexual sadism found in the American Psychiatric Association’s Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (4th Edition).
Now, publishers have been known to include such pieces solely as intellectual justification for collections of pervy pictures. But this psychologist, it turns out, has some very positive insights to offer about the stuff we like to do.
And her contribution was, Belluso promises, “as casual and unplanned as the rest of the book”.
Although the photographer lost a few major clients after Swedish Fetish came out, it wasn’t long before he began working with some big new brands. Around four or five years ago, commissions that he wasn’t even looking for started coming in from global players including Cadillac, Condé Nast and Nestlé.
“When I asked such people why they called me instead of one of the millions of really good car or food photographers in the world, they explained that all these photographers who are great at photographing cars or food follow the rules.
“They do car photography as it should be shot. As it should be lit. As it should be represented and all that. Since I have never done that, and I don’t care about those rules — never have done and never will — I will shoot it however I think that product is going to sell the most.
“That’s what these companies were interested in – a lighting professional and specialist who could create more with their products.”
‘When I asked why they called me instead of one of the millions of really good car or food photographers, they explained that all these photographers who are great at photographing cars or food follow the rules’
I ask Andrea whether he shot all the book’s images on film, as looks entirely possible. “Film and digital,” he replies, “half and half”. So, ten years on, does he still shoot anything on film?
“Sometimes, and in those cases I work with large format film and large format Polaroid.” And what makes him decide which medium to use?
“I follow the energy. I hold a lot of seminars and workshops and talks for photographers around the world, and the one thing I keep repeating over and over again is not to ‘go in their heads’.
“That’s exactly what I don’t do — I don’t go in my head. I don’t think about anything, I really follow the energy. And that for me is really the definition of being creative. If you’re being creative you will not follow any rules, you will not follow any laws of photography.
So he’s just working on instinct? “Totally, totally. And that’s when it gets more fun. And when you’re having more fun, then you start creating even more, and start surprising yourself.
“And that’s when you look at your picture and think, ‘Wow did I just take that? That’s really cool. Let me take another. Oh my God, that’s even different. Oh my God, what am I doing?’
“I think that’s how you should work if you want to have fun with it. And even if you don’t want to have fun with it, but you want to earn more money with it, that’s the way to go because that’s the thing that’s gonna make you unique.”
However, Belluso insists, this is not the same as trying to do something weird just to be weird.
TO BE CREATIVE, LET GO OF CONTROL
“When you’re creating in that space, you’re actually controlling the situation and judging it, one way or the other. What I’m talking about is a space of total non-judgment, and totally receiving any energy that is being thrown at you and being willing to play with it and have fun with it.”
The point, he emphasises, is to be willing to let go of control. “Most photographers including myself are complete, total control freaks. But the minute you let go of control, that’s when you start being really creative.”
Andrea recalls his own reaction, on first realising that his youthful taste for women in skintight latex and high heels was fetishistic. “It was: OK, wow, that’s interesting!
“I didn’t put it in a box, I didn’t put it in a category, it was just part of me,” he continues. “So even this thing of putting fetish in a box… what if we could actually see that we are all fetishists, to some degree?
“And for me that was liberation. The reason I call the book a renaissance for me is not just a ‘liking’ aspect, but it’s also the personal life aspect. I discovered so many sides of me that are amazing — and fun.
I agree with him that at its best, the fetish scene is a wonderfully supportive community. But like any community, not everyone sees eye to eye on everything.
For example, in the latex scene, there is a small but vociferous ‘purist’ element who totally reject latex as ‘fashion’ and despise the whole ‘celebrities in latex’ phenomenon.
They condemn all those glamorous people posing in high fashion latex brands, on the grounds that they are ‘not authentic’.
Andrea does not agree. “I think it’s cool, I think it’s great!” is his take on it.
Does he think it helps latex to be accepted? “Yes, totally, totally.”
Even if it is only skin deep for a lot of those people?
CELEBS IN LATEX ARE GOOD FOR US
“It doesn’t matter, because all of a sudden it embraces everything and everybody. By doing things like that we’re actually breaking down certain barriers that are still there.
Shouldn’t we be concerned that with celeb types, it’s just a fad, and it will pass?
“OK fine — who cares!” he retorts. “I was a punk. I was one of the first punks in the world, right here in London. Punk passed as well, but punk is still there, the grain is still there, it’s a huge influence.
“By saying latex fashion is not ‘pure’, what that creates is more separation, more distance, rather than going towards acceptance. And it’s not even a matter of wanting to be accepted or not.
“It’s a matter of including everybody and everything. This world does not need any more separation. That is for sure, that is totally for sure.”
But don’t we also have to acknowledge that people who adopt ‘purist’ positions may do so as protection against external disapproval?
“It’s a matter of not feeling that they’re enough,” Belluso believes. “This relates to a project I’m working on the moment, called Project Redefine Beauty, all about people feeling that they’re not enough.
“It’s due to social media and life in general really. They feel they have to fit into certain boxes, so what they do instead is create their own boxes where they’re sure they can fit in. OK that’s nice and comfortable. How much fun is that? I’m sure a lot of those people are not having a lot of fun.”
‘By saying latex fashion is not ‘pure’, what that creates is more separation, more distance, rather than going towards acceptance. This world does not need any more separation, that is totally for sure’
Andrea, however, certainly is having fun with the 20 or so projects he has going on right now, under the umbrella of his House of Belluso company.
“Right now we have one TV programme about photography — but mainly about creativity — probably shooting in the north of England this autumn, and probably to be broadcast worldwide on TV.
“This will be the second TV production I’m doing on my own. Apart from that I have a US tour and southeast Asia tour of photography classes for both pro and amateur photographers coming up in October and November.
“I’m also producing a lot more videos for our website. These are more inspirational videos which are both with [lighting specialist] Profoto and [medium format digital specialist] Phase One, for which I’m an ambassador.
“And I’m bringing out three books soon — hopefully one of them before the end of this year. And in between all that, commercial shoots and private shoots and art projects.”
Currently, though, there are no plans to produce a sequel to Swedish Fetish.
“I’m not eliminating the possibility,” Andrea says, “but it’s not something I’m planning. I’m working on another project now, which is fine art nudes. I hadn’t planned that either, so it’s however they come. If I get another idea for making another fetish book, then sure.”
Editor’s footnote: My thanks to Stephen Fuller of Bondinage for helping to facilitate this article by bringing back a copy of Swedish Fetish from Hamburg’s Passion Fair, where by chance he had bumped into Andrea for the first time since the two were students together at Central St Martins.
swedishfetish.com
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belluso.com
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BELOW: A selection of 30 images from the book Swedish Fetish by Andrea Belluso, in two galleries.
Click either preview to open a gallery, then click any thumbnail to view its image or start slideshow
Fetishistas Half-Price Offer! Buy Swedish Fetish for €75
Photographer Andrea Belluso is offering the last copies of his book Swedish Fetish (right) exclusively to Fetishistas fans anywhere in the world at €75 per copy (half the original €150 cover price) + shipping. Andrea will sign every copy purchased through the Fetishistas offer.
All books are shipped from Stockholm in protective book packaging. A single book weighs 2.4kg. The standard shipping price by normal post (trackable) includes insurance covering loss or severe transport damage. The standard shipping method is airmail, which should take no longer than ten working days.
Alternatively, an express
shipping option (inc insurance) is also available to any destination at a fixed price, using either UPS Standard service or Swedish Post recom-mended service which takes up to six business days for worldwide delivery.
To purchase a copy, use the Swedish Fetish ‘order’ link on the right. To check the exact cost of shipping before buying, simply
select your country on the online order form. Below are sample costs to destinations worldwide. All prices (in euros) consist of a flat rate plus a per-item rate. Use order code FETISHISTAS to get the 50% discount on the book.
SWEDEN
€30 per order + €10 per item (Single book total: €40)
REST OF EUROPE (inc UK)
€45 per order + €10 per item (Single book total: €55)
REST OF WORLD
€55 per order + €10 per item (Single book total: €65)
EXPRESS WORLDWIDE
€150 per order + €20 per item (Single book total: €170)
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