Fetish fashion in lockdown/1: how our designer brands are coping
Fetish fashion in Lockdown is the theme of our second series of Covid-crisis interviews with fetish professionals. Our May cover story, this first article on purveyors of alt/fetish clothing and accessories features Atsuko Kudo and partner Simon Hoare; Justin of medical fetish online retailer MedFetUK; and Stacey, owner of latex fashion brand Eustratia. All talk frankly about the impact of the Covid crisis, their coping strategies, and their hopes and fears for the future. Banner: Atsuko Kudo, by Simon Hoare for Love mag. Latex: Atsuko Kudo; shoes: ainsley-t
As with the previous survey of fetish performers, we asked this new article series’ purveyors of clothing and accessories to tell us about the effects on them of the Covid lockdown, and to share some thoughts about the future.
We asked first about the lockdown’s effect on their work, specifically including the effect of event cancellations, and also lockdown’s effect on their lives beyond fetish.
Thinking about the current trading circumstances, we wondered if any of them had been repurposing skills to replace lost
income, if the crisis had inspired projects or opened up opportunities, and if they had sought any financial support from government or elsewhere.
We asked them to suggest one thing to make life much betterin their current personal circumstances.
And finally, we wondered what they felt was the current outlook for them, personally and as business owners, and asked them to share their hopes and fears, both for our fetish community and for society and humanity at large.
FETISH FASHION IN LOCKDOWN: FIRST 3 INTERVIEWS
FETISH FASHION IN LOCKDOWN:
ATSUKO KUDO London
Couture latex clothing
and accessories
Designer Atsuko Kudo founded her latex brand in 2000, and she and partner Simon Hoare have worked together on it full time since 2005. AK is widely considered the world’s most successful latex fetish/fashion crossover brand, with a celebrity client list to die for. It is one of very few latex labels still boasting a bricks-and-mortar store, though the store (in north London) is currently closed under lockdown rules
Q&A with owners Atsuko & Simon
Effect on our work: Our retail store in London is currently closed of course. We haven’t had any problems with suppliers, our business premises or staff.
Effect of event cancellations: This is impossible to calculate that at this stage.
Effect on life beyond fetish: We are very fortunate in that for us at worst this has been inconvenient. We cannot compare our experience to those working in the front line of the crisis. And we have also been very fortunate that no one we know has had the virus. The main feeling is being aware of how fortunate we are, as so many people have had the worst possible experiences.
The situation has of course given time for more reflection and we have probably watched more films than usual. And our garden looks better! We have also stayed in close contact with those we work with both within and outside the brand.
Repurposing skills to replace lost income: This hasn’t been necessary as most of our time has been spent on ensuring Atsuko Kudo can remain the brand it has always been. And that hopefully we also have a future.
Crisis-inspired projects/opportunities: We have more time to think about new plans, designs etc, so yes, in some ways the situation may be helping us to consider how we will progress in the future. We have also just filmed an interview with Atsuko for Love magazine (see link below).
Financial support from government/ elsewhere: We can’t discuss the financial situation. But overall it seems the government assistance for business has so far been better than its handling of the medical crisis.
One thing to make life better: The obvious answer is a vaccine. Which is what everyone wants. However, we are also very concerned that the world should not just ‘return to
normal’. As many fetish people know, ‘normal’ is not always so great. And many things about the pre-virus world were certainly not great. So if a vaccine just meant the world returning to the same ‘normal’, in many ways that would be frustrating and probably a huge wasted opportunity.
The outlook for us: It is difficult at this stage to see when our retail store can re-open safely. We are monitoring the situation and we will of course keep everyone informed once there is any change.
Hopes and fears for our fetish community: We just hope that everyone can stay safe, healthy and creative. Most people in the fetish community have always had to find their own ways of making an unconventional outlook fit into a conventional world. So if we are being optimistic we can hope that these life skills will be very much an advantage for the many friends and people we know who have always communicated with others in unique ways.
On the downside, meeting others, being in close physical proximity and even intimacy are now of course not possible outside of those we share our lives with day-to-day. This must be hugely frustrating for so many people and of course actually psychologically problematic for a significant proportion.
Hopes and fears for society and humanity: We hope this is a huge wake up call for humanity. The scientific evidence so far is very clear that this virus jumped from other animals to humans. It also strongly suggests that this happened due to those animals being violently taken out of their natural habitats while many of those habitats are also being destroyed.
So this is therefore a human-made crisis. The world was already careering towards ecological disaster, so perhaps this is Mother Earth drawing the line in the sand and saying ‘enough’. Perhaps that should always now be the safe word for humanity.
atsuko kudo.com
instagram.com/atsukokudolatex
thelovemagalzine.co.uk/atsuko-kudo
FETISH FASHION IN LOCKDOWN:
MEDFETUK Newton-le-Willows
Medical fetish clothing
and equipment retailer
The ‘only online store dedicated to medical fetish, kink and roleplay’, MedFetUK made headlines in March when it donated its entire stock of hospital scrubs to the NHS. In recognition, we’re featuring the Mersyside company here — primarily for its medical clothing, which it sells with all manner of other top quality medical grade items. Outside fetish, owner Justin also works in photography, graphic design and digital marketing
Q&A with owner Justin
Effect on my work: A big increase in demand for infection control products (e.g. hand sanitisers) and PPE (masks) in March, possibly partly due to not raising our prices while some were taking advantage of the escalating situation to profiteer from these items.
We took a decision not to re-stock these, so that we weren’t taking supplies away from healthcare facilities, so most were sold out very quickly. Some have become difficult or extremely expensive to obtain anyway, which we also anticipated.
Since then we’ve seen fairly normal ordering patterns for other products like needles, probably from people still wanting to enjoy their medical play and fill their time during lockdown.
Our suppliers have of course been very busy, so we’ve seen some delays, but we’ve been able to keep the majority of our products in stock or available to order. We have a very small team and operate without expensive premises so we’ve been able to continue with little change operationally. Overall we’ve been quite fortunate, as an online business, to continue relatively normally.
Effect of event cancellations: We did have tentative plans to begin trading at fairs this year, but obviously those ideas been put on hold for now. We’re unlikely to do this before 2021 now, even if restrictions are lifted. We were also in very early planning stages for possible workshop type events, again on hold for now but still definitely in the pipeline.
Effect on life beyond fetish: The biggest challenge has been having two teenagers permanently stuck at home! What have I been doing to stay sane and cheerful? Wine, mostly. And Bourbon. Also Gin.
Crisis-inspired projects/opportunities: As some people will know, we found ourselves unexpectedly asked to supply the NHS frontline with PPE. We sent what we had free of charge, which we were happy to do to help in a small way (we don’t carry large stocks).
But we were also quite shocked and angry that hospitals were asking us for basic equipment (and desperate enough to accept our offer of just the few items we had) while the government was claiming it was making sure the NHS had what it needed.
Financial support from government/ elsewhere: Not as yet, but we do foresee a possible downturn in sales as the lockdown is lifted, so we’re keeping it under review.
One thing to make life better: Lifting of travel restrictions and allowing at least small gatherings, so being able to spend time with friends and family.
The outlook for me: As mentioned, some of our products are definitely useful for passing the time in isolation, so we expect sales to continue while strict restrictions are in effect.
We think when restrictions are lifted even partially, then people are going to want to get outside as much as possible, so the kind of ‘indoor games’ our products are used for may be in less demand, for a time at least.
From a personal perspective, we want the same thing, especially being able to be with friends and family of course, so we hope that at least will be possible in some form soon.
Hopes and fears for our fetish community: The fetish scene is fantastically resilient and creative, so we certainly hope that the clubs, events, artists etc can find ways to adapt/survive, to come thorough the crisis and keep the future scene just as varied, vibrant and exciting.
Hopes and fears for society and humanity: We also hope that society and humanity takes this as a reality check and a signal that we all need to adjust our economic and social systems in ways which value people above profit for its own sake.
We’re more optimistic about the former than we are about the latter.
https://medfetuk.com
https://twitter.com/MedFet_UK
https://www.instagram.com/medfetuk/
FETISH FASHION IN LOCKDOWN:
EUSTRATIA Manchester
Latex fashion design and manufacture
As well as running Eustratia, owner/creative director/designer Stacey does photography and personal branding under the name Spruced Image. “I love helping other brands with their vision,” she says. She is also a model, both for her own designs and for occasional external fetish and non-fetish projects
Q&A with owner Stacey
Effect on my work: When the news first hit, I had a large bout of order cancellations and didn’t receive any new orders for a few weeks. This was extremely worrying and I did wonder if this would be the end for Eustratia, at least in the way it currently operates.
I have had to change the direction of the brand before, and I am open to trying to adapt to a changing world. But in a time of uncertainty, it would be an extra challenge that I didn’t want to take on unless necessary. Luckily, after those first few weeks, things have picked up and it looks like at least a portion of my customers like to have fun in latex at home!
I have had limited issues with suppliers but not anything I have been unable to work through so far.
I am fortunate enough to work from my home studio and shoot the majority of my content in-house with the help of my partner, so I haven’t had to face a lot of the issues affecting other professionals at this time. At times I have felt that being cut off from the outside world could be a hindrance, but the current climate has made me extremely grateful for my situation and the ability to continue to do the work I love in safety.
Effect of event cancellations: A third of my clients are models and performers and almost everyone in the scene looks forward to the summer party season, so the closure of large-scale events is inevitably a blow to business. But I actually didn’t have plans to trade anywhere abroad this year so the loss to me personally is minimal.
Effect on life beyond fetish: To be honest, it feels like the rest of the world is giving my lifestyle a try for solidarity. I have lost count of how many sunny days and bank holiday weekends I have had to miss out on
I generally don’t have as much free time as a lot of others seem to have, but I have been speaking to friends and family, helping them order things that they need online and giving tips on how to stay sane while working from home/being indoors a lot. I have also been spending some time on my planted tanks — my only hobby that doesn’t tie into my work in some way!
Repurposing skills to replace lost income: It’s sort of the opposite for me. I had used my skills to create and launch a new business at the beginning of the year but the crisis and social distancing has meant that I have had to postpone most of that work and just focus on working from home, making latex. This sets back some of my plans for both businesses but I’m grateful to still have work and a set-up that works.
Crisis-inspired projects/opportunities:
Although I wouldn’t say that it has inspired me, it has allowed me the time to bring to life a couple of designs from my archives that I never had the opportunity to make in the past. As my tenth anniversary as a brand owner approaches, I’ve been looking back on my past work and realised it was important to me to have some of the original designs that formed the Eustratia aesthetic in the current range.
For my birthday this year, instead of spending time with friends and family as I had planned, I spent time with some old designs, updating them and bringing them to life.
Financial support from government/ elsewhere: Like a lot of self-employed people, I am waiting till June to find out if I’m eligible to claim anything.
One thing to make life better: I am grateful that on this occasion, my situation seems survivable, at least for the immediate future.
The outlook for me: I do think that long term social distancing will seriously affect the fetish and party scenes, and in turn my business and others like it. Latex is a luxury item after all and if people have to prioritise more important things, they will.
If restrictions are relaxed to allow even small parties, I believe people will be excited to socialise again and (hopefully) want to show off new, shiny outfits!
Hopes and fears for our fetish community: I hope that social gatherings will be able to continue in future. Virtual parties are a great idea but they don’t come close to the real thing and I’m not sure the fetish party scene can continue to exist without events. Many models and performers are already struggling for work, and even content distributed digitally requires artist collaboration.
Hopes and fears for society and humanity: Although I try not to dwell on such things in a situation with so many unknowns, I do have a few fears. Such as falling back into a throwaway culture that we were previously taking steps away from, the limits of on-screen interactions and the mental, social and physical after-effects of prolonged isolation.
Most of all though, it’s the mistrust. Friends in different situations voicing their own personal fears and ending up on opposite sides of an argument; people feeling let down or abandoned by their employers or government. Fear is hard to erase and I hope we can get through this before it takes hold.
eustratia.com
instagram.com/eustratia_latex
sprucedimage.co.uk
EDITOR’S FOOTNOTE, MAY 12 2020: Our interviewees above all provided their responses before Boris Johnson announced his lockdown changes on Sunday May 10. So we gave them the opportunity to update what they said about the outlook for them in light of those changes — if they wanted to. All three felt what they’d said — and we’d published — pre-announcement did not need to be changed.
LINKS TO MORE COVID CRISIS-RELATED ARTICLES ON THE FETISHISTAS
Tags: Accessories, Community, Designers, Latex