
PURE SEX (left) and Kim West (right) provided two more latex fashion shows alongside EctoMorph at 1985’s Embassy relaunch of Skin Two club nights (photo: Andy Phillips)
The fetish clothing scene and repertoire of clubs was tiny then, and ripe for a makeover. Daniel James (as he now preferred to be known) decided to provide the scene with the style it had lacked, delivered through beautiful images created in collaboration with photographer Bob Carlos Clarke.
The small collection of glamorous dresses Daniel produced significantly changed the appeal of rubber.
It was in Stallions that I met Tony Mitchell, Tim Woodward and later Grace Lau, all of whom became lifelong friends and collaborators.

TONY M and Krystina enjoy an early clubbing encounter in which, thankfully, at least one of them was properly dressed
Many of the crossdressers I got to know led double lives at that stage. Their fetish dalliances were secret and this small location in the heart of Soho with its bar and alcoves and wooden floor provided a basic, unadorned environment that was more about the people than the venue.
Its neutral decor was the perfect backdrop for a creative underground scene where the participants could observe and be observed.
The atmosphere there took me back to Berlin, where I had gone as a student at St Martins in 1978, before the wall came down. It was on that trip that I had first encountered overtly outrageous transvestites (as they called themselves then).
The trans contingent at Skin Two were at that time less flamboyant, until the scene expanded and the likes of the Alternative Miss World events and the Drag and Leather Balls at Porchester Hall started to change things.
At Stallions it was more understated. I initially attended wearing a leather outfit I’d made myself. I had yet to even think about making rubber clothes.
Dress options were simpler: there was a lot of leather and PVC but only some latex — as the explosion in latex fashion was yet to come.

CLARE was a Skin Two regular and one of the committed latex-wearers when leather and PVC were still more popular among the early clubbers (photo: Krystina Kitsis)
It was in this club, after meeting and chatting with Tim and Tony, that I decided this scene needed a makeover. My aim was to merge the worlds of fashion, from where I’d come, and fetish — which my eyes had now been opened to.
I had no idea if this would work. In fact when I first took my collection of EctoMorph latex garments to Fashion Week later in the ’80s, buyers used to laugh at the clothes, feeling them and saying, “Who on earth is going to wear this fabric?”.
My collection at the time was mainly white latex, designed to neutralise the shock-horror reaction people had to the clothes. It was only when Elle magazine then Vogue started featuring my designs that their attitude completely changed.
It was most disheartening. It is hard to imagine this now as latex is such a universal look — the go-to fabric for celebrities on the red carpet and a first choice of bands in their promo videos.
The black latex look, meanwhile, has merged so completely into the identity of rock ’n’ roll that it no longer shocks.
Music at Skin Two was an amalgam of styles delivered by David Claridge. As soon as the Gregorian chants started, we knew this was the cue for a spanking or SM scenario to take place on the dancefloor.
This was where pro dommes (see right) could demonstrate their skills and provide both entertainment and a vehicle for willing participants to engage in the ensuing drama.
Sadly the original Skin Two club was shortlived due to the tabloid exposure of Claridge, whose talents included puppetry and who had become renowned for creating the breakfast television character Roland Rat.
Unfortunately the twin interests of kids’ entertainer and fetish scene operator were deemed incompatible in the public eye. The former was more lucrative so the club had to go. It, however, segued seamlessly into a new club called Maitresse run by another couple but otherwise largely unchanged.
After Tim Woodward launched Skin Two magazine in 1984, he and I partnered up to relaunch Skin Two club events. We started with a ball held at the Embassy Club in Old Bond Street in July 1985, and followed with club nights at Heaven’s Soundshaft annex and then Zeetas in Putney.
Our concept incorporated fashion shows, a live band and entertainment such as ponygirl racing staged by the legendary Master Keith.
It was at this first event at the Embassy that I launched my EctoMorph latex label on the catwalk. The scene had started to expand and change direction, venturing into new definitions and a more openly expressive culture.
One started to see celebrities attend. Prince came to our first event in Old Bond Street. At this time his onstage look reflected the colourful dandyism seen in the Purple Rain movie released the previous year, but his Embassy outfit evoked more his Dirty Mind-era style of tight briefs and dancer’s legwarmers.
The latter was a daring image for the time considering the attitudes of tabloids, which were anti-gay and desperate to ‘out’ people. Not that Prince was gay, but his image was risqué and ahead of its time. He was alone in the club, quietly observing.

PRINCE attended the Skin Two Embassy party in an outfit reminiscent of his Dirty Mind-era look, as in this onstage shot from his 1981 Amsterdam show (photo: Virginia Turbett)
Marc Almond of Soft Cell attended regularly and had also been seen at the original Skin Two nights. I photographed Dexys’ Kevin Rowland, and also Siouxsie of the Banshees. I later designed a black PU dress for her, for the video and song Face To Face, which was composed for the Batman Returns soundtrack but was released after the film because of licensing issues.
Jean Paul Gaultier became a regular attendee who, as well as enjoying the vibe of the club, came in search of inspiration for his catwalk collections.
An unfortunate encounter transpired when the club relocated to the annex of Heaven called Soundshaft. A very engaging Italian guy would come regularly and we got to know him, or so we thought.
Grace Lau took photos of him naked and dressed in his fetish gear outside the Bank Of England, for an exhibition of hers. He had taken a shine to Tim Woodward, who asked me to pretend I was his girlfriend because he was being pestered by this guy.
It transpired not long after that this guy was Michael Lupo, a serial killer of gay men who used sadomasochism to lure and then trap and kill his unsuspecting victims!
It is hard to imagine just how small and underground the beginnings of the fetish scene were 40+ years ago when one is so familiar with the ubiquitous scene that exists today.
Definitions and interpretations of fetish are so vast, much like the gender rules that have been expanded from a dual to a multi-diverse system. There is no putting that genie back in the bottle.
But it is with fondness that I look back on the beginnings of that scene in the narrow definition it then had — beginnings that led me to where I am today.

PERFORMANCES at Stallions were staged to a soundtrack of Gregorian chants, and typically involved dominas demonstrating their skills with willing collaborators (photo: Krystina Kitsis)
BELOW: Latex fashions by Pure Sex and Kim West were also featured in the Skin Two show at the Embassy Club where Krystina launched her EctoMorph brand in 1985 (photos: Andy Phillips)
Click/tap either preview to open its gallery and click/tap any gallery thumbnail to start slideshow
AUTHOR AND PHOTOGRAPHER CREDITS & LINKS
Krystina Kitsis/EctoMorph.com
Krystina Kitsis/Facebook
Krystina Kitsis/Instagram
TheFetishistas/Krystina Kitsis: Ectormoph at 40
TheFetishistas/Original Skin Two
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Andy Phillips (no link)
Derek Ridgers
Helmut Newton
Peter Ashworth
Virginia Turbett
Tags: Community, Fetish Parties, Latex










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