CHARMSKOOL: ‘COOLER AND KINKIER VERSION OF ETSY’
Visitors to the Charmskool Shop website or Instagram page will have noticed that the business makes prominent use of the tagline: ‘the cooler and kinkier version of Etsy’.
Although now publicly proclaimed, this slogan started out as the way Alexandra privately described the Charmskool site when talking to people about it. “Because that’s essentially what it is,” she argues.
“If you’re into kink fashion and complementary products (design-led toys, art prints, accessories), it really is like a curated version of Etsy. No more wading through pages of rubbish to get to the good stuff — we’ve done the work for you!”
Back in July this year, Houston’s frank views on Etsy found a wider audience when she was extensively quoted in a Guardian Business article headed: ‘A lazy solution’: Etsy sellers say ban on sex toys is a betrayal.
The article, by the paper’s consumer affairs correspondent Sarah Marsh, was in response to Etsy’s announcement that from July 29, it would ban the sales of sex toys such as dildos and vibrators as well as ‘printed or visual materials’ that existed for ‘the purpose of sexual arousal or stimulation’ — including old Playboy issues and vintage adult magazines.
Alice Wu, head of Etsy’s trust and safety team, had publicly stated that the new policy was the company’s attempt “to continue to keep our users safe”.
But, quoting Houston, Marsh wrote that “sellers saw this as a betrayal”, adding that, since the announcement, Charmskool had experienced “an influx of former Etsy vendors” to its platform.
Looking back on what she told the Guardian — you can read the full article here — Alexandra absolutely stands by what she said then.
“Etsy has been on people’s shit list for a while,” she states bluntly. “I’ve always loved Etsy, and still use it to buy and sell vintage clothing. But they stopped policing the site a while ago.
“So despite Etsy continually raising their
sellers’ fees, small brands were now faced with being side-by-side with cheap knock-offs of their own designs — sometimes even using their own (stolen) photos!
“Etsy used to do things like contact a designer, ask them to prove their item was handmade by showing their studio materials, and making a garment from start to finish — this happened to a girl I lived with who was a latex maker.
“Then they lost control of the site — you’d need to have a huge compliance team to deal with managing that many products.”
This, she explains, is why, with Charmskool, designers have to submit an application to join the platform: “It ensures the brands joining meet our standards.”
But while Etsy’s change of policy is shaping up to be the gift that keeps on giving for Charmskool’s online operation, where does the recent Charmskool House Soho event (reviewed below) fit into Alexandra Houston’s master plan?
“Charmskool House was an idea I had for a long time,” she confides. “I’m always really intrigued when a brand does an ‘activation’, especially when what is happening in the activation isn’t necessarily part of what the brand actually does, or sells.
“I always use Redbull as an example. Car racing, cliff jumping, music events — it’s more about the spirit of what it represents. Our brand is deeply intertwined with art of different types.
“So when I stumbled across this crazy venue in Soho that was full of interactive spaces (such as a cinema and a video wall!) it seemed the perfect opportunity to put on something that celebrated the creativity of our community — photography, film, video work etc.
“It would also be a great excuse to get dressed-up in Soho during London Fashion Week, and there would be a market there too, of course!”
If you’d like to know how it went, you can read my review of Charmskool House and see some pictures from it in the box below!
Event report: CHARMSKOOL HOUSE, SOHO – Tony Mitchell
When I first spotted Alexandra Houston at her Charmskool House night in Soho on September 14, she was powering towards me along one of the venue’s narrow upper-floor corridors with her phone in front of her face.
Only when she reached me did I realise she’d been filming as she walked, grabbing content from the event to post on social media.
I do hope my unwitting interruption of her efforts ended up on the cutting room floor. That would certainly not have been an inappropriate fate for it — given, in times gone by, how many other bits of film, video and audio footage must surely have ended up on the floors of this same building.
For although the venue hosting Charmskool House during London Fashion Week currently operates under the name All Is Joy, the building at 75 Dean Street was previously home to De Lane Lea Studios, once the top location in London for audio post-production on films, videos and TV commercials.
Along the way, De Lane Lea’s facilities also recorded the work of such musical legends as the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, the Jimi Hendrix Experience, Pink Floyd and others.
So it’s sad that, after a more recent role as Warner Bros’ UK post-production facility, these legendary studios are now apparently scheduled for demolition.
But on the plus side, their likely last gasp as a quirky venue, complete with still-functioning screening rooms, made an ideal location for Alexandra’s multi-media pop-up event — a broadening of the Charmskool brand that evolved from the same ethos that had earlier given birth to Le Boutique Bazaar, her decade-long collaboration with Torture Garden.
When my companion and I arrived about an hour after the event’s early (six for six-thirty) start, there was already a fair smattering of people who’d apparently decided to forego their more usual Saturday evening habits in order to be there from the get-go.
I was planning to shoot some pictures at the event, but with any venue that’s new to me, I like to explore the layout of the place first if possible.
So we set off to do just that, starting with the ground floor rooms where the art and photo exhibits were on display. (Only later did we discover that behind these rooms was the venue’s biggest preview theatre, where various kink-influenced work was being shown tonight.)
In the gallery rooms there were selections of work by photographers Darren Black, Sorry Jonny Died and Miss Gold, as well as art by Alexandra’s Charmskool partner Becky Lightbody.
These were all relatively compact exhibits, although by opting for smallish unframed prints rather than larger framed pieces, Jonny Kaye (aka sorryjonnydied) ended up with at least as many images on a single wall as a lot of ’togs ever manage to upload to their Instagram pages!
Keen afterwards to explore the upper floors, we encountered the first example of quirkiness that had been promised with this venue: a lift with some kind of programming fault that limited how its buttons worked.
By the time we’d read and digested the detailed guidance for getting around this problem, we could have simply walked up the stairs.
The first floor revealed a nice little bar area adjoined by a long narrow corridor that led to other function rooms. Squeezed into an alcove by the lift was live portrait artist Inky Layla, engaged in creating a likeness of a gothic beauty who would surely have been in the running for Most Hardcore-Looking BDSMer of the Night.
Next along the corridor was Dexter Kay’s flash tattoo studio, which might or might not have been directly responsible for the strong smell of disinfectant in the air there.
After that, my memories of what attractions were located along which corridors on which of the two upper floors are a bit jumbled. I recall there were at least a couple of screening rooms, one of which was used for the evening’s spanking workshop, and there were two — or was it three? — rooms that housed the evening’s selection of Charmskool market sellers.
As the evening wore on, all these spaces became very busy, so it seemed evident that the various distractions on offer were well-matched to the tastes of the crowd that, in due course, filled the venue.
The sellers participating in the Charmskool House market spaces included Ada Zanditon, An Original Leroy, B_Dodi, Bound in Leather and submission, Broke Boutique, Daddy’s Gurl, Eyes Overload, Full Vulgar, Haus of Mammila, Kerris Spencer, Kraken Counter Couture, Maniacc, The Hidery and The Loussine.
Before things became too hectic, I was able to chat with a few of them, including accessories specialist Ada Zanditon (whom I’d not seen in the flesh since she became a mum) and Kerris Spencer, a new name to me who was displaying her impressive range of punky vegan leather pieces.
Both women, incidentally, will be among the UK designers heading to New York in mid-October to participate in the international debut of Charmskool market (of which more on page 3).
My friend, who is just beginning to explore the scene, was particularly keen to attend Sophie Cohen’s spanking workshop, and — to judge from how packed out this presentation became — so were a helluva lot of other people!
We managed to secure seats near the front, but unfortunately, this also placed us close to the large and very noisy fan that had been set-up to keep the room cool. For me, the fan noise drowned out much of dominatrix and educator Sophie’s presentation — a shame as she clearly knew what she was talking about. She should have been miked-up.
Photographing the presentation also proved challenging owing to the extra-bright graphic display emanating from the screen behind Sophie and her spanking model. But my friend still picked up some useful tips on spanking technique — so she at least got what she came for!
This, for me, was the only aspect of Charmskool House’s whole mixed-media event that didn’t work as well as it could have. But given the evening’s ambitious scope, it was a relatively minor hiccup, and one that would be easy enough to avoid in the future.