BANNER IMAGE, above: PETAR PEROVIC wears LIBIDEX LATEX. Photography by NICOLAI KORNUM
Observing that not many straight latex companies cater much to this market, Rose adds that when the third H&H collection is added in the near future, Libidex will have more than 350 items in this range alone.
The signs are that going into this new market has already been successful for the label, and I suggest to the Libidex chief that one of the reasons might be that Hard & Heavy items are not just functional but also stylish.
“Yeah, I think that’s what we think Libidex is,” he responds. “We think of ourselves as stylish. But we try not to be over-stylish; if you try to over-style something it’ll appeal to two or three people in the world but you do narrow your market down.
“So it’s making it stylish and not just ‘a bit of old rubber that’s glued together and that’s a bag and you get on with it’ sort of thing. We try to give it a twist and even if it’s just a standard item, we try to do it well.”
The launch of Hard & Heavy was, he adds, born of the label’s determination to “address the balance between male and female” in the massive Libidex catalogue.
“We’ve got nearly a thousand products on our website, and before Hard & Heavy it was 60-70 percent female. Even though we had quite a nice male collection, we realised it was quite a few years ago that we’d done it.”
‘We’ve got nearly 1,000 products on our website, and before Hard & Heavy it was 60-70% female. Even though we had quite a nice male collection, it was done quite a few years ago’
Consequently, the label has just followed up Hard & Heavy II with another major male collection called Men’s Fashion.
Launched at the end of March, its initial 130 styles include men’s catsuits and other bodysuits, underwear, jackets, coats, waistcoats, jeans, trousers, leggings, chaps, shirts, t-shirts, long- and short-sleeved tops, shorts and kilts.
We’ve focused on this new men’s range in our six galleries below, which showcase 72 representative styles from the collection. You can, of course, see the whole lot on the Libidex website, where, at the time of writing, the entire collection is available with a launch offer of 25 percent off.
To choose some random examples, that means you could currently pick up the new two-colour Magnus Catsuit for £224.96, heavy-gauge Slim Fit Jeans for £119.96, padded-shoulder Mozart Bolero Jacket for £112.46, two-tone Billy Button Shirt for £127.46, or heart-decorated Cupid Shorts for £44.96.
And, promises Simon, this collection will soon be joined by Men’s Fashion II, which will open up even more options to those who complain there isn’t enough stylish men’s latex on the market!
“With all our collections,” says Simon, “the moment we put them on Facebook, people are going ‘Can we buy them, when can we buy them?’ Bedding is a good example — we do bedding now, and it just flies off the shelves!
“There are also plenty of things that don’t,” he admits, “but what we find in our market is that you have to wait. There are some things that take a little while to warm up, then they become popular.
“There’s some stuff that’s more esoteric, but we want to cover that. So some things don’t sell that often, but the people who do buy them have been looking for them and are glad to come across them.
“What we’ve always wanted to do is cater for everyone, as much as possible.”
This is interesting to hear Simon say, as a few months ago Libidex caused something of a stir in the latex forums by its decision to discontinue its made-to-measure service — a move that would seem to fly in the face of the above aim.
Anyone who has ever browsed the posts in FetLife’s Latex Lovers Group will have noticed how frequently its members recommend ‘always going down the M2M route’ if you are worried that your size or body shape might not work with a standard off-the-peg garment (especially, obviously, a catsuit).
So by dropping M2M, is Libidex not abandoning a significant (and often quite vocal) sector of the market?
“We stopped doing made-to-measure for a few reasons,” Rose responds. “Mainly it was because we started doing a lot of larger sizes. A lot of our M2M was larger sizes. That’s all they were really — not shorter arms and longer legs.
“And we thought it would be much fairer just to make things in larger sizes.
“As with all bespoke clothing, not just rubber, people get penalised for being larger. So we’ve gone up to XXXXL in 60 or 70 percent of our styles and in 100 percent of our popular styles — with no price difference.
“And we also now do an XXS. So we now do nine sizes from XXS to XXXXL in a good number of styles and all the popular ones for sure. Everything produced in the last two to three years will be in these extra large and extra small sizes.
The other side of this fairer pricing for larger sizes is the time and effort saved by the label in no longer having to produce M2M garments.
“It’s no secret,” says Rose, “that it is time-consuming and quite a difficult thing to do and keep the customers happy — and we didn’t want to take orders and then not satisfy them to a high standard.
“I don’t think there are many people we’re not able to satisfy with the larger sizes. But if there are, there are still companies out there that will do that.
“By doing this we might be losing two or three orders a month at most. So it’s not a great number of customers. We’ve got things covered, I think we’ve done a nice job and they’re not paying a 40 percent premium for it.”
That way, he says, his London team can concentrate on what it does best, “which is design”.
But, he adds, visitors to the Libidex website will notice that it is also starting to offer different arm, leg, skirt and dress length options on selected garments.
“It’s being introduced in a small, exploratory way — probably on about ten percent of our styles, the most popular ones,” he explains. “So we’ve kind of covered it and it suits us, and I honestly think it suits the customer better too.
“So for any people who see the end of made-to-measure as a negative thing, it’s actually a positive thing, and one that helps to maintain our good prices!”
Another way Libidex keeps its prices down is by producing all its patterns by computer — something it’s been doing for two or three years now.
It has installed a cutting machine at its workshop which Simon describes as “like an old-fashioned plotter with a scalpel in it”. The London studio transmits designs to it and it cuts and draws at the same time
“It’s really fast,” he enthuses, “and a great way to mix technology with our craftsmanship. I see it as a good thing when you let machines do some of the jobs. It leaves your hands free to do the other jobs, things that really need human input, like design.
“We still make all our patterns by hand but when they’re done, we make them by machine, but the craftsmanship is still there. It makes the clothes affordable and that’s what people want.
“We’re not doing crap at cheap prices — we’re not Poundland! We’re producing the same quality of clothing that we used to sell at £300-400 a catsuit but we’re now selling at £250 or £200 instead.”
Finally then, what glimpses of future Libidex endeavours can Simon give us? We already know there will soon be a Hard & Heavy III collection, and Men’s Fashion II. But after that?
“The world’s our oyster now, because we’ve got to design. I could double our design team and still be busy with everything I’ve got planned. Some things are a surprise and you’ll have to watch this space,” he says.
“But for example, I think there’s room for laser-cut stuff. We’re getting a laser cutter and a press that will cut out things — just to add a little bit more flavour and make things look a bit more interesting.
‘We’re not doing crap at cheap prices –we’re not Poundland! We’re producing the same quality of clothing we used to sell at £300-400 a catsuit but we’re now selling at £200-250 instead’
“Like every other rubber designer we’ve only got 50 colours to play with and the material’s been the same for ever and ever. So we’d like to mix it up a little bit; we’re even thinking of some custom colours for Libidex.
“So, again, watch this space. We’re also thinking about printing stuff because we’ve found a way to print that is quite durable.
“Possible new collections sometime after Men’s Fashion part 2 could include Hard & Heavy for Women. I think there’s a big market for that too. A lot will be female versions of the male stuff: Hard & Heavy with breasts, you could say!”
And when might this happen?
“I’m just saying ‘sometime later’. We never get as much done as we’d like to. So it’s best to be vague and say more collections and more ideas are on the way.
“Our mission is to keep on designing and to give variety. If I had the staff, we could give you 2,000 items in about three months!
“Basically, there’ll be a lot of innovation this year and next. We’ve shown we’re doing it already. We’re a very happy company — we’ve reached the point where there’s a really nice staff, most of whom have been here many years.
“What’s nice is that Libidex has settled down, and from the consumer’s point of view that’s definitely a good thing!”
PETAR PEROVIC (photo: Nicolai Kornum)
Nicolai Kornum is the Producer and Director of multi-award winning fashion films produced through BlitzWerk Studio, London.
Among the numerous awards he has won are Best Cinematography and Best Visual Effects for the fashion film Statues (2016) at several festivals in the USA.
His other multi-award winning films are Silver Girl (2015), Blackened Wings (2014) and Part Human (2013).
Nicolai’s training includes European Film College (Denmark), Soho Editors (London) and a degree in Stage Management & Technical Theatre at LAMDA (London Academy of Music & Dramatic Art).
His theatre work includes Stage Management and Lighting Designer on the fringe of London’s West End (The Box Soho, Southwark Playhouse and Resistance Gallery).
Kornum has worked with Danish film directors Lars Von Trier, Thomas Vinterberg, Niels Arden Oplev and Bille August. Among the actors Nicolai has worked with are Joaquin Phoenix, Connie Nielsen, Aiden Quinn, Kelly Preston, Asa Butterfield, Nicholas Hoult, Andy Serkis and Claire Danes.
He has been published by Jack The Lad, Dark Beauty, BBC, Gay Times, QX Magazine, Dis-graced Magazine, HUF Magazine, Rough Magazine, Faint Magazine, Broadwayworld, Favorite Hunk Blog, Beautifulmag.com, Phoenix Magazine and Vanityhype.
He has published two books of his photography, both of which are in 21 x 29.7 (A4) format and available as hard cover versions or PDF downloads.
His latest, Nudes (below left), features “17 beautiful and sexy men with gorgeous physiques and full frontal nudity” on 100 pages. The hard cover costs £59.99 plus shipping, while the downloadable PDF is priced at £39.99.
Men in Colour (below right), which features 18 models, is available in the same specifications and costs £49.99 plus shipping for the hard cover and £29.99 for the PDF.
Both books, along with a selection of prints, can be ordered from the Shop page of the photographer’s website — link below.
nicolaikornum.com
nicolaikornum.com/shop
facebook.com/nicolaikornumphotographer
blitzwerkstudio.com
facebook.com/petarperovic
model mayhem.com/petarperovic
Tags: Clothing, Designers, Latex, Retail