However, in time Dayne Henderson found himself in a dilemma very familiar to young designers who, in order to gain real-world experience and help make ends meet, take work as garment assemblers at established latex labels.
“The problem was that I was primarily working as a manufacturer, and although I loved Rubber55, my passion for design took over. To be truthful I didn’t even consider the fact that I would be any good at it.
“All I knew at the time was that I had ideas inside of me that I needed to get out there whether I ‘made it’ or not. At the time I never really cared about making money as opposed to putting my ‘little bit of crazy’ out into the world.
“I was at Rubber55 for a year; I have only really gone solo in the past six months and a lot has happened in that time. Only a matter of weeks after I left, I was showing at Rubber Cult and Torture Garden!
“My first TG show was a collaboration with Mantis London. The collection was already in existence after Rubber Cult, but jewellery designer Ana Mantis came on board to create amazing complementary pieces and put on the TG show.”
So let’s talk some more about the designer’s influences. We’ve already mentioned Bowery — “Leigh Bowery all day long!” is how Henderson sums up the performer’s importance to him — but who and what else has inspired him?
“My influences are varied,” is his reply. “I still have a real love of fashion old and new; Thierry Mugler has also been a heavy influence. Honestly my tastes are that varied, I could talk all day long, so its probably safest to say I have quite an eclectic taste when it comes to influences.”
On Model Mayhem Dayne Henderson declares that his aesthetic is “a mix of Fetish, Fashion and the Future”. What markets does he see today or in the future for that aesthetic?
‘My work as a whole is my mask; people who meet me expect a very extrovert and edgy guy, when in reality I am pretty shy at first’
“I think it’s swings and roundabouts. Every few seasons, designers will touch on latex and the future. It’s nothing new — fashion is fickle! I think there will always be a market for this type of thing — it’s just a case of finding it.
“Whether it’s fashion or fetish, people will always look for new outlooks on the future.”
Henderson also says his aesthetic often has “reference to identity through the exploration of masks”. What identity issues, exactly, is he exploring, and to what extent are they a way to ask questions or find answers about himself?
“As mentioned earlier I think we all to some degree wear masks in our general life — it doesn’t have to necessarily be a literal thing. My work as a whole is my mask; people who meet me generally expect a very extrovert and edgy guy, when in reality I am pretty shy at first.
“In terms of me using masks in my work, it’s about creating an opportunity for the wearer to become anything they want to be. If you wake up one day feeling like an alien… dress that way!”
But does Dayne Henderson consider himself a fetishist? “Yes, I would consider myself a fetishist! I think a lot of society is, whether we choose to accept it or even realise it.
“I also like the concept that my outfits can dehumanise the wearer. It’s not necessarily about a pretty model wearing a pretty outfit; instead, my outfits wear — and I suppose consume or take over — the model.
“I think being a gay male into designing for women plays some part in allowing my work to take on the form it does.
“I know a lot female designers who also model, so their clothing can be a lot about making themselves look good. And with straight male designers who make latex, it’s maybe down to their sexual attraction to women in latex.
“I can appreciate females that look attractive, and the form/body, but it isn’t as important to me as creating striking work. I think that may allow me to be a little more outside the box.”
At the time of our interview, Henderson has staged fashion shows for Torture Garden and Rubber Cult in London, and is just about to show again at TG’s Edinburgh party. What were his two London show experiences like?
“Brilliant — having the chance to show what I do was really cool. I’m not a designer that needs to be constantly admired, but at the same time I loved seeing the response to what I do.
“The two audiences differed greatly. Rubber Cult has a very relaxed vibe — a lot of the Cultists seem more like rubber purists — whereas Torture Garden has a much more clubby and varied crowd.
“The fact that the response to my work differed was fun. Rubber Cult-goers seemed to understand and recognise the heavy rubber influence with the full enclosure masks etc, and Torture Garden seemed to lap up more of the extreme fashion and performance/art side of what I do.”
What most people won’t know, however, is that Robin Archer at House of Harlot was hoping to give Dayne Henderson Design a guest spot in his shows at last November’s Dominatrix party.
In the end, the collaboration logistics didn’t work out, but, as mentioned at the top of this article, it looks like Dayne may soon be making his European fashion show debut at Dominatrix in his own right.
‘When I was at university and all my peers wanted to be involved with Gucci and Chanel, my goal was to meet Robin from House of Harlot’
So how did his connection with Robin come about, and how does he feel now about having the chance to show at a big European party?
“Robin Archer has played a part in my following my dream and love of latex,” reveals the young designer. “When I was at university and all my peers wanted to be involved with Gucci and Chanel, my goal was to meet Robin after coming across him and his work years before.
“He invited me down to HoH for a chat when I was about to do my degree work. He is a very knowledgeable and interesting guy and that chat really solidified my interest in latex and the scene. So it’s safe to say I was gutted that I couldn’t be involved in Dominatrix alongside HoH.
“However, the opportunity to do Dominatrix in my own right is crazy and very humbling. I only left Rubber55 six months ago and to go from being relatively unknown to being given such opportunities is amazing.
“It makes the world feel like a smaller place when you can reach out to European and international markets, and the opportunity to see different reactions to what I do really gives me a buzz.”
At the moment Dayne works on a commission basis, for anything from a standard catsuit to his most extreme avant garde creations. “And honestly I love doing it all,” he enthuses. But could the future also see diversification with an off-the-peg range?
“I am playing catch-up in terms of business and I think to make it a viable business, a ready-to-wear line is definitely on the cards. However I will never stop doing the couture collections as I think I have a unique outlook that’s worth getting out there.
“I find it a privilege that I have the opportunity to make an income and a life out of something I genuinely love doing. I still get nervous about every order I send out but I don’t necessarily think that is a bad thing — customer satisfaction is of the utmost importance to me.”
As a designer who clearly has an eye on the future, what possible futures does Dayne Henderson see for latex as clothing and/or wearable art?
“Honestly, who knows? And this is what excites me a lot about latex! Designers are popping up all the time and, without wanting to come across as arrogant in any way, it’s a shame a certain number aren’t original and the latex world seems rife with copycats.
“I have no time for brands or ‘designers’ that lack imagination and that create for financial gain only. When they do that without taking the time to perfect what they do, it really gripes me, as consumers will and do pay for this crap, which ultimately makes the more high-end designers lose business.
“The harsh reality is that good latex can be expensive, but I think in the long run, it’s worth the investment.”
Aside from Robin Archer, which latex designers does Dayne Henderson admire — and also, does he have ambitions to work with any particular models or photographers from the scene?
“I think Pretty Pervy is a big loss to the world of latex, and there is a brand called MEAT that is creating some really fresh street-style gear that I think is seriously cool. Also, there’s an artist/designer called Adam Electric whose work is very innovative and impressive.
“Models are a contentious issue with me. I have noticed some brands will only use very well known models, and logically that makes sense, especially when it comes to social media.
“But I also feel that in this business, a lot of the focus can be on models and photographers before designers, and although coming from a biased point of view, I don’t agree with that so much.
“I don’t feel the need to use well-known photographers or models as I like interest in my work to be organic. Not only that, but I think everyone deserves a chance to get their foot in the door. Also, the fact my work will always be masked can put a lot of models off.
“I was given chances when I was virtually unknown so if I can reciprocate by using lesser known models and photographers, I think that’s a nice thing.
“That’s not to say, should the opportunity arise to work with well known people in the industry, that I wouldn’t accept — but it would have to be a comfortable fit.”
‘I was given chances when I was virtually unknown, so it’s nice if I can reciprocate by using lesser known models and photographers’
Wednesday, 12 March 2014
Our March 2014 cover image of this outfit by Dayne Henderson was photographed by Laura Hince on model Abbie Mac. Further images by Laura (also with black backgrounds) can be found in our first (New Work) gallery above.
The image at the top of this article features model Strawberri Haze photographed by Jon Lloyd Photography. All the images with white backgrounds in the first gallery were also created by Jon Lloyd, in collaboration either with Strawberri Haze or Martin Palmer, aka drag artist Crystal Meth, as credited beneath the individual images.
The older images with white backgrounds that appear in our second gallery were shot by Dayne Henderson, and feature models Ellis Howe or Jessica Lois Bailey, as credited beneath the individual images.
The remaining images in the second gallery feature Latex Lucy wearing outfits that involved design and construction work by Dayne while at Rubber55. These images were shot by Phoebus and Tony Mitchell, as individually credited.
All Photoshop creation of multiple images etc, based on his own originals and those by Jon Lloyd and Laura Hince, was done by Dayne himself.
Model and photographer links:
Abbie Mac
Crystal Meth
Dayne Henderson
Ellis Howe
Jessica Lois Bailey
Jon Lloyd
Laura Hince
Phoebus
Strawberri Haze
Dayne Henderson is a 25-year-old latex designer from Newcastle upon Tyne in the North-East of England.
After studying fashion for seven years — culminating in a First Class Honours degree in Fashion Product and Promotion from Sunderland University — he launched himself into the subversive and thrilling world of latex.
Having worked for established brand Rubber55 until August 2013, he went solo and quickly began to build up an appreciative fan base.
He has already staged fashion shows at Torture Garden in London and Edinburgh, London Fetish Weekend’s 2012 New Designer of the Year (in which he won second place), and London’s Rubber Cult night.
Dayne Henderson is tipped to make his European fashion show debut at an upcoming edition of the Dominatrix party near Amsterdam.
Tags: Clothing, Latex